I love Soft Shell Crab. Each summer I have to remind myself to eat it at as many places as possible.

(Locations are in NYC unless otherwise noted)

2002

• May28: $53 lunch (incl. carafe of wine, side of fries with mayo) at Balthazar. Where's my mistress?

• May9: dinner with David Schmaltz at [Boca Chica]. The freebie table dish of plaintains with sauce was excellent too.

Other sources of note:

• Japonica : good, but hideously overpriced.

• Nha Trang: probably the most expensive item on their menu, but still a decent deal...

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